Botswana 2024: Dublin to Botswana
After embracing a career transition that led me to start this travel blog, our family’s first major adventure was a safari beginning in Maun and concluding in Kasane. However, before immersing ourselves in Botswana’s wilderness, we navigated a series of flights that were, to put it mildly, “interesting.”
Dublin to Abu Dhabi
Our journey began in Dublin, with a smooth Etihad flight to Abu Dhabi (AUH). The eight-hour layover in AUH was a breeze, thanks to the airport’s usual efficiency and a delicious dinner at Todd English.
As we passed through AUH, I was reminded that every airport has its own quirks when it comes to security. In AUH, laptops are the only items you need to remove from your bag. Liquids can be left in the bag as long as they’re in containers of 100ml or less. So far, so good.
Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo Airport
The real adventure began upon our arrival at Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo Airport (JNB). Unlike AUH’s plethora of dining options, JNB turned the quest for a decent cup of coffee into a full-fledged expedition. The airport is expansive, with Terminal A handling international flights and Terminal B catering to domestic ones. We landed in Terminal A, collected our luggage, and trekked to Terminal B to check in for our CemAir flight to Maun. Interestingly, even international CemAir flights check in at the domestic terminal — confusing, I know. After completing check-in, we marched back to Terminal A for boarding. Simple, right?
A tip for fellow travelers: allocate ample time for passport control and security at JNB. The queues can be lengthy and chaotic, with only three of the eight or nine passport check booths operational during peak hours. We witnessed a few desperate passengers jumping the queue as their flights were about to close. After the calm efficiency of DUB and AUH, this was a bit of a shock. But hey, we were too exhausted to care at that point.
One final tip for those traveling from South Africa to Botswana: you can’t purchase spirits in duty-free and bring them on the flight; you’re limited to South African wines. So, if you were planning on stocking up on gin (or, in my case, scotch) for your safari sundowners, you’ll need to make those purchases in Botswana.
With that rich experience behind us, we finally made it to our boarding gate in Terminal A. Next stop: Botswana!
Who we are
Before I get ahead of myself, a quick intro.
Our safari adventure is a family affair, with the three of us — each with our own quirks and passions — ready for our first safari. There’s me, the self-proclaimed romantic (or “armchair romantic,” if you believe my wife). My wife, the ever-enthusiastic traveller, would never turn down the chance to visit a new and exciting destination. And then there’s our daughter, the budding foodie and photographer, who’s just as eager to sample new cuisine as she is to capture the perfect shot of our adventures.
Jo’burg to Maun
Boarding the CemAir flight to Maun, we were delighted to find it barely 30% full. All three of us scored window seats and marvelled at the terrain below during the 90-minute flight. Despite CemAir’s indifferent online reviews, our experience was quite the opposite. The flight was on time, comfortable, and came with a satisfying lunch. We were served a hearty sandwich, an energy bar, a bag of chutney-flavored crisps that reminded us of India, a beer, and a bottle of water.
Upon arrival in Maun, baggage collection and immigration were a breeze. Customs did stop us briefly to inquire about any seeds or food items, but our stash of energy bars, roasted cashews, almonds, and walnuts passed inspection without a hitch. The customs officer even shared a chuckle with us, remarking that every traveller seems to favor cashews and almonds.
Aerial views: JNB to MUB flight
Gazing out the window of our CemAir flight, we were treated to a stunning view of the landscape below. The terrain shifted from the dense forests of northwest South Africa to sparser desert vegetation as we entered Botswana and continued further northwest. One fascinating sight was the cultivated parcels of land northwest of Johannesburg, which were circular instead of the usual quadrilateral shapes. A quick Google search revealed that this is due to the increasing use of center pivot irrigation — a method that distributes water efficiently across large areas, especially in arid regions. If you’re curious, you can read more about pivot irrigation here or check out a paper from 2004 discussing its effectiveness in South Africa.
The sheer number of rivers snaking through the landscape below was incredible. I haven’t seen so many rivers flying across Europe or India. It was a powerful reminder of the life-giving force of water in this arid landscape. The roads below us seemed to stretch endlessly in straight lines, underscoring the flatness of the Botswana terrain. We also noticed several bush fires, their origins unclear — a stark reminder of the challenges posed by drought in this region.
In the morning, the rivers appeared white, shrouded in mist, while later in the day, they seemed to take on a greenish hue, reflecting the surrounding vegetation. Many rivers had wide, sandy banks with little water, a clear sign of the ongoing drought.
From the air, it was also evident that most homes in Botswana have metal roofs, a practical and enduring choice. These practical roofs, gleaming in the sunlight, seemed to be a ubiquitous feature of the Botswana landscape.
Next post: our first day in Maun!
Notes about today’s sightings
Center Pivot Irrigation: Center pivot irrigation is a modern agricultural technique that has transformed farming in arid regions. This method involves a rotating sprinkler system that pivots around a central point, creating distinctive circular patterns visible from the air. In South Africa, the use of center pivot irrigation has grown significantly, with the total irrigated area increasing from 1,128,690 hectares in 1990 to 1,696,127 hectares in 2017. This system is particularly effective for crops such as maize, wheat, and soybeans, which have shown substantial growth under center pivot irrigation in regions like the Free State.
Rivers: The Lifeline of Africa: Rivers play a crucial role in Africa’s ecosystems, economies, and societies. They are primary sources of freshwater for drinking, agriculture, and industry. Major African rivers like the Nile, Congo, Niger, Zambezi, and Orange are vital for irrigation, supporting crop cultivation in arid regions. These rivers also facilitate transportation and trade, connecting inland areas to coastal ports. Additionally, they sustain diverse aquatic ecosystems, provide hydropower potential, and hold cultural significance for many African communities. The Okavango Delta in Botswana, for instance, is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its rich biodiversity, highlighting the ecological importance of these water systems.
References: https://www.grainsa.co.za/change-in-cropping-practices-under-centre-pivot-irrigation, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-teZoO1nNI, https://www.activewild.com/major-rivers-of-africa/
Originally published at https://hegdestravels.blogspot.com.
